Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Last post

The reason for this blog is at end. I've created a new blog for my trip up north and back to the British Isles.

I wanted to call it Vahalla but apparently it was already taken. So I called it northernsail, or the full address: www.northernsail.blogspot.com

To view, click this link

See you there!

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Still here

I'm thinking about changing the name of this blog into "Stuck in PEI".

The days slide by in a haze of old friends, outings and alcohol as I continue to wait for the arrival of pilot guides for Newfoundland, Greenland, Iceland and Norway.

Sailing the northern latitudes is only wise in the summertime. By the end of August one should be at least back in the 50's. With the fireworks of July 1 / Canada Day over I feel my Valhalla Voyage is already behind schedule.

If I'm not in open waters by this time next week I might have to cut Greenland out of the equation this time round. Save it for my transit of the North West passage perhaps. See how it goes.

The final spudzooka scene in the Adventures of Ara' Deg video had to go through a few takes before getting it right and I pasted them together below for your viewing pleasure.

The PEI Liberation Front has caused a bit of a stir locally and my comrade Mac has been taking orders for our t-shirts.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

At last - the video

Below is the video, a collection of clips from Wales, around the North Atlantic, to PEI. Enjoy!

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

PEI - not bust!

After a slow sail north from Bermuda (apart from a 24 hour 35+ knot gale) I arrived in Canso Harbour, Nova Scotia 8 June, Saturday night. Canso Harbour is a small but very friendly community and at the local pub everyone insisted on buying me beer and 'join the gang'. The tradition of enthusiastically welcoming strangers of these communities is a great pleasure to experience - stemming from the Irish and Scottish cultural roots. It's what sets the Maritimes apart from the rest of Canada.

After a 24 hr sail through fog from Port Hawksbury, Cape Breton, I arrived in Charlottetown, PEI, last night. And so the raison d'etre of this blog is have been realised and come to an end. I have a list of repairs to do here and am contemplating a sail to the vast uninhabited expanses of Labrador, Greenland and Iceland for July and August. Perhaps I'll create another blog for that trip. Perhaps not.

But before I sign off this blog I'll post a short video I'm working on - a series of clips of my trip from Wales around the N Atlantic to here. Currently it keeps coming out upside down for some reason and I really can't expect people to stand on their heads to watch it so .. I'm still working on it.

I 'ghosted' for days through the Triangle. Ghosting means inching forward on light whispers of a breeze. One ghosts about the same speed as an infant crawls before learning to walk upright. It's amazing how far an infant can crawl left on its own for days - miles and miles. So for the sake of this blog I jotted down some notes while ghosting to pass the time and give you, dear reader, a flavour of life in the doldrums. I reproduce them below:

May 30 11:40 am
The virtually non-existent northerly has subtly shifted to a virtually non-existent southerly. I'm elated. It's quite extraordinary how the hardly perceptible direction of air can raise ones spirits. The air gods have smiled on me - without even the need of a sacrifice.

May 30 2:33 pm
"No please, don't throw me overboard" screams the the discarded piece of string I found hiding in the corner of the cockpit.
"But you're useless and messy with no right to be traveling with me", I counter.
"No, no, pleeease ... I've come a long way with you, practically part of this boat, some consideration please", it continues.
"No luck", I rely and toss it overboard.

May 31 1:15 pm
One of the most exciting events when ghosting along is spotting floating treasure up ahead. Well it could be floating treasure. All you know for sure is it's something, floating, ahead. Out come the binoculars to scrutinize it first. Then, if possible we inch towards it. Who knows what it could be. Something of great value or usefulness perhaps. Or maybe a severed head like one sees in horror movies. Either way it's a must see.
This afternoon I spotted a long whitish object up ahead. It could be ... a scroll containing valuable information (buried treasure map?) . Or perhaps it's a container fallen of a cruise ship containing cash, or jewels, or both. I creep towards it. Very excited as we approach. It's a discarded florescent light bulb. But you never know. The big find could be just over the horizon.

June 1 2:42 pm
It's been three days now that we've been drifting through the centre of the Triangle. Oddly enough, not a single boat, freighter, or even airplane has come into view the whole time. I am completely and utterly alone out here. So I start to think ... perhaps the Aliens have been snatching boats before they come into view. That would logically explain the many recorded "disappearances" of boats in the Triangle over the years. It would also explain why I have seen nothing for days. However "they" are leaving me alone. I'm relieved. But I can't help feeling a little hurt and insulted also. Am I not worthy of "their" attention?!!

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Cape Breton bound

It's time to go so I'll be off first thing tomorrow morning. The weather forecast seems reasonable and my three week visa is expiring so to the Great White North I go.

I estimate my journey to Port Hawksbury will take me 9 - 10 days. Charlottetown could be reached from there within 24 hours providing contrary winds arn't blowing. But I'll probably stay at least a day/night in Port Hawksbury for a breather.

It won't be my first time there as I stopped there on my maiden voyage fron Maine in June 2006. I know a place where I can get a great Ceasar salid and internet connection.

So I'll blog again from there!

chow for now

Simon

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Waiting for a Weather Window . com

It's been overcast for a couple of days now. Despite that, the horde of tourists coming by plane and cruise ships continue to sport their floppy sun hats and shades. I guess it's the sightseer uniform regardless of weather.

One mini gale after another have been sweeping across the section of the North Atlantic for a few days now. Another blow expected tonight and again on Wenzday (English language improvement program in progress).

My visa runs out on Monday but I can get an extension if I want to. I'm still keeping y options open at this point. Mind you the weather isn't too dire. I could leave anytime I want to. But with John's departure the pressure of deadlines have been lifted and I'm more in favour of being patient and waiting for a better weather window so I can enjoy a timely and pleasant sail up north.

Did laundry today. Very exciting. Now that I've watched all 70+ of the Chinese pirated DVD movies I picked up for a pinch of salt in West Africa, I have to discover new ways to pass the time here.The social life seems limited for single-handers. Perhaps I'll have to dig a bit deeper to uncover the goings on in pristine St. Geoge's Harbour.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Lazy Day

Sunday in St. George's, Bermuda. Everything closed. Life has grinded to a halt. Quiet. Bermuda is the perfect place for those who want to retire - from life that is.

But at least the sun and mild weather is back after a day of topsy turvey in the harbour yesterday.

Another mini-gale for tomorrow.

Tuesday is looking feasible for departure.Yes, I will be riding gale force roller coaster by Wednesday. But perhaps that's what I need to perk me up after this placid existence in Bermuda.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Triangle Tribulations

The stinky weather is back - gusting 35+ knots from the SW as yet another cranky low grinds its way across the Atlantic to the north of us.

Just the other day a French yacht crawled back under power to Bermuda after attempting a crossing to Europe via the Azores. The boat no longer had mast or sails. It was ripped off in a surprise Bermuda Triangle blow. Apparently the gale came out of nowhere and descended like fury upon the unsuspecting boat. Now I know where the Triangle gets its reputation. I guess they were lucky not to become one of the 'disappeared'.

I keep a close eye on weather patterns and forecasts. Tuesday might be the day to fly from the nest and dodge my way between the relentless march of lows coming down from the continent. I'll know closer to the date considering I can only get a forecast for seven days ahead. And even that's open to error.

In short, sailing through the Triangle is not for the faint-hearted.

It's a pity John had commitments imposing time restraints. Despite his initial reservations I think he would have enjoyed the brisker sailing in the more northerly latitudes of the Atlantic.

When I approach Nova Scotia I'll have another factor to to deal with. This time of year it's often shrouded in thick, impenetrable fog. Ones ears become sensitive listening for the faint hum of a diesel engine indicating a tanker, freighter or fishing trawler bearing down on you. Silence is golden.

But to PEI I must go, solo (unless a Bermudan beauty jumps aboard at the last minute with the plea "take me away sailor!").

Apart from enjoying the pleasure of my dear Da's company, I'm looking forward to kicking Alan MacLean's butt in a face to face chess match were the on-line excuses of "I made a stupid move because I was drunk / distracted / temporarily insane" will no longer suffice.

Until later,

Simon

P.S. Emma, I tried to call you today. The line was busy, busy, busy. Blabbermouth.

P.P.S. Dear Reader, please feel free to leave a comment, Then I'll know that at least one person has read my blog.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Bermuda settles down

The SW gale is over. The winds have shifted NW which makes for a calm St. George's Harbour again.

My last maintenance job, tightening the steering pulpit to the cockpit, is proving to be the toughest, with corroded bolts and tight spaces to contend with. With a bit of luck I'll have it sorted by the end of the day.

I have been contemplating a Saturday departure but am keeping an eye on developing weather patterns over the coming week. I'm tempted to wait a spell longer considering the strong WSW winds predicted will make a harder sail to avoid landing in Newfoundland or Greenland instead of my intended landfall at Cape Breton Island.

I will attempt to publish another post when I'm ready to push off.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Bermuda blows up

When we arrived here we said we'd stay a week at max. The wind and weather have decided otherwise. Yesterday we had strong winds and heavy downpours with some 3 inches of rain fell in the day. Last night the winds picked up and this afternoon its a full gale with gusts of 40 kts plus. I spend much of my time adjustingdocklines and worring as we are in an exposed position.

John and I studied the weather charts and forecasts the other day and true to form these higher latitudes sport much stronger winds and bigger seas as a rule. John was clearly concerned at the prospect of sailing these seas and I tried to reassure him that the boat could take it as I have discovered sailing those winds and latitudes on a number of occasions.

I'm not sure how well I convinced him but needless to say he decided he wasn't going to have enough time with his Maritime rellys and almost out of the blue decided to fly from Bermuda to Halifax today.

I'm out of time - more later!

hwyl, S.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Bermuda at last!!

We arrived in Bermuda on 5 May after 14 days at sea from Tortola, British Virgin Islands.

Weather was not in our favour most of the time. First we had to endure two lightning storm directly over the boat. John said he saw one strike so close he could see water spurting up from its impact. (He also claimed to have seen a giant fish that leaped out of the water before plunging back down into the depths.)

Later in the journey we found ourselves becalmed - not for hours - days!

Near the end we were plagued by headwinds that lasted over three days before going back to dead calm.

We were 100 miles from Bermuda at that point and I roared "fire up the engine!" and 18 hours later we were entering St. George's Harbour.

Bermuda is small and compact but pleasent enough. Public transport is cheap and today I took the fast-speed catermaran ferry from St. George to the main town of Hamilton for a mere $6.

Although a territory of the UK that boasts of its British roots and culture, I have yet to find a chippy or a cafe. The weather is perfect - 24 - 28 C everyday - a break from the 30+ C temperatures I have been living in for the past 6 months.

John is enjoying his rest on land but prefered to stay in St. George today. I'm the more the 'explorer' type where he is more the 'consolidator' type.

At sea we discovered that he is the 'budist' content to view the world from a serene and detached perspective aware that it's all just an illusion while I, on the other hand, am the 'pagan', emersed and delighting in the sensual world and fleshy pleasures.

So you could say we're a 'balanced' crew.

Until later,

Simon

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Into the great behind

All right. Tomorrow we leave. 3 or so weeks at sea. Sounds wonderful to me but there are those of different opinion.

We have no mechanical or other such problems and are fully stocked on food and water. As far as I can tell we are as prepared as we can be.

The BVI's (or rather the island of Tortola as we haven't been to any other island of the BVI's) are wonerful. Very friendly people, lovely climate, and a great sense in music (Trinidad was a little to Soca for me). We have spent about a week in Tortola and although I have enjoyed every minute of it I am really looking forward to heading back to sea and also finally arriving in the Maritimes.

We estimate that it should take us any where from 2 to 3 weeks depending on the strenght of the winds. Also depending on the winds is wherther we'll stop in at Bermuda or not. Some times I wish we will because I'd like to see Bermuda, and other times I think it would better just to do the trip in one hop without having to deal with the extra hassle of more burecrats and such.

This leg will be the longest time I have spent at sea, and I am personally looking forward to it with a mix of youthful anticipation and elderly caution. I know the potential danger the sea can bring, but at the same time the freedom and joy as well. I don't believe I will land in Canada quite the same person. For better or for better or for worst I guess.

Well, next stop Canada.
John

Into the great behind

Adious BVI

After much discussion and consideration we have decided to push off tomorrow despite long range weather forecast of light and fickle winds.

A stop-over in Bermuda is possible but not likely given the forecasts. We will most likely find ourselves more to the west following the USA coast (a couple of hundred miles off it).

My optimistic ETA in Port Hawksbury is May 9 (I like the number 9) but May 16 is more realistic.

My "beatings will continue until morale approves" t-shirt seems to be working as John has now agreed to give a final blog entry before departure.

until later,

Simon

Thursday, April 17, 2008

progress so far ...

Hi Folks,

We had a good sail up here from Trinidad to Tortola with alll problems, such as engine and windvane stearing breakdowns, sorted and repaired on route.

We travelled approximately 500 miles in 4 days which is quite satisfying.

It only took as two days to recover from motion sickness and start eating properly again - which is usual for me and thankfully John too.

Unfortunately we were pushed too far west to stop at any of the other islands on the way but did sail within eyesight of Granada, Nevis and St Kitts.

Our list of "to do's" is now finished here in Road Town Tortola and we are just enjoying some land existence and waiting for improving weather patterns to set off for Cape Breton. A stop in at Bermuda is possible but unlikely given prevailing wind and currents. I expect the trip to take between 2 and 4 weeks giving us an arrival in Cape Breton and Charlottetown sometime mid-May.

John no longer wants to contribute to the blog. Not sure why. Perhaps a lack of "what's in it for me" appeal. But no worries. He hasn't totally cut himself off. He continues to correspond in private with his parents via email. (Or so he tells me).

So Grampa John, Emma, Tony, Jackie, Alan, and whomever else might have been following this blog so far I'm afraid to say that the youthful enthusiastic dimension of this blog has dissapated and only the weary jaded eye of myself remains.

I have some pictures to upload and will do so when I get an internet connection for my laptop.

till later,

Simon

Monday, April 14, 2008

Road Town, Tortola BVI

Landed in British Vigin Islands yeterday. Will post more when I get a reliable internet connection.

Simon

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

we're off!

We're about to set sail in an hour or so. Don't know when we'll have a chance to get back online. But we'll keep a short daily log and update when are back on. Hope to reach Montserrat in 4 to 5 days but it's up to the winds, not us.

till later,

Simon

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Despite my best efforts John remains polite and civilized. Not even cheap beer nor curvy Caribbean girls seems to have an effect!

After solving a minor stuffing box crises (leaking propeller shaft) with superior logic we have settled on a departure tomorrow afternoon heading north.

Our first landfall will be largely dictated by prevailing winds - somewhere in the Caribbean between 4 and 8 days. Our next sojourn into cyberland is even less predictable.

Off now to the alter (galley) to sacrifice a chicken (soup) to the wind and sea gods.

till later,

Simon

Sunday, April 6, 2008

T - One Day

The beginning of the final preparations were started today. The headsail repair was finished today and was put back on the boat, ready to go.

In an attempt to find some replacement bolts for the steering gear of the windvane I walked down to the Carribean equivalent of West Marine called Budget Marine. Unforetunetly just about everything seems to be closed in Trinidad on Sunday. Hopefully we will be able to find some tomorrow.

Later on today we brought the boat into dock again to fill our water tanks. All that is basically left to do is provision the boat on Monday and then we're ready to be on our way.

The TTSA (Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association) held a regatta today. Now, the regattas that I'sailm familiar with starts at 1000 hrs on Saturday and goes until about 1700. Then on Sunday it continues from 0900 to 1500. In the Trinidad version the regatta is only on Sunday. It starts at about 1230 and goes until about 1430. They must only have time for one or two races unless they have very short courses. Its funny, every one seems to sail here but nobody seems very avid. Which is strange since they can sail in very pleasant weather all year round. Maybe there just burnt out.

Weather permitting, tomorrow will be our last full day here. It will nice to be underway and on our way.

John

Saturday, April 5, 2008

An Adventure

Today was my 18th Birthday so as a birthday present Simon offered to be my tour guide for the afternoon. We had a great time.

We took one of the local forms of taxis into Port of Spain with another current resident cruiser from Chaguaramas. I have never been so scared in a vehicle in my life! Barreling down small, windy, wet road. Zipping in an out of oncoming traffic with no functioning seat belts in the back, all at 100 km. I was glad to just make it to Port of Spain alive!

As this is my first time in a country outside of North America Simon took we through one of the local market places. It was amazing. At least for me anyway. Streets packed with people with cars trying to maneuver in between them. Kids no more than 14 or 15 hocking a myriad of goods. It was like nothing I had ever seen before.

After that we went for a walk through the botanical gardens, which was also quite amazing. The range of the different types of foliage was quite astounding. One minute you are surrounded by what looks like giant ferns, and the next your by the tree that for the life of me looks like a giant arbutis with stripes of aqua green and orange spiraling around it.

Once we've had our fill of the gardens we went on over to the zoo. This was a real treat as I've never been to a zoo before. There were all sorts of animals but what was most interesting was that some of the wildest and bizarrest were native to only South America and Trinidad. Which means these animals could potentiality be found rate around where I'm sitting. Amazing.

We didn't get any work on the boat today other than for the fact that we re-launched her today after being on the hard for our allotted time of 24hrs. All went uneventfully well and we were back on our hook by 1030.

Tomorrow we are planning to finish up the last of the minor odd jobs that remain to be done. Then on Monday the plan is to re-provision, and then on Tuesday (weather permitting) be on our way to Monserat.

Up up and away as they,
John

Friday, April 4, 2008

Busy Busy

Well, today was a very eventful day.

We were told yesterday that we were going to have access to the travel lift at 0800 today. When we arrived at the travel lift berth the tide was at the lowest point. Apparently this was a surprise to the travel lift operator, who suggested we wait till the tide raised a bit so that he could maneuver the straps underneath the boat. Two hours later at 1000 the travel lift operator finally decided to try it.

As soon as the hull was out of the water their was a collective gasp. The boat having only spent about 2 months in these high fouling waters of the Carribean was black with barnacles. An amount one would expect after a couple of years, not months!

Gladly though, the amount of barnacles was deceptive to how much work was involved as they were all lying in an outline of the hull in about an hour.

Then the rain started. And continued.....and continued......and continued. It rained for about 4 hours strait. At times it was stronger than any rain I had seen before. To stand in it for 10 full seconds was to be completely soaked to the bone.

We decided to call a refreshment break at this time as we were just waiting for it to stop raining so that we could paint the hull. At about 1700 the rain finally stopped, but it still remained rather cool. By far the coolest day I have experienced here since arriving. We let the hull dry for about an hour until we are now at our present state. Simon prepping the hull while I am writing this.

Time to go help,
John

Thursday, April 3, 2008

a very naughty camera

Just posted two pictures (see below). Yes, the dates are wrong. They were taken today, 3 April, 2008, not 26/03/2008 as is displayed on the picture itself. I'll have a good talking to the camera tomorrow to see if it'll mend its ways.

Busy day tomorrow. We haul out the boat at 8 am to have all the barnacles and other sea lifeforms clinging to the bottom of Ara' Deg craped away, scrubbed clean, and repainted ready to be dunked back in the following day.

John remains polite and well-behaved despite my vulgar and crude influence. Hope it doesn't rub off on me.

till later,

Simon

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

It's John's 18th birthday in 3 days. I asked around fellow sailors what would be a suitable celebration. So far I've had the suggestions of having him 1) walk the plank, 2) keel-hauled.

Both suitable punishments I suppose but not quit right. We'll have to form a committee.

till later

Simon

Preparations

Well another day down. Today was a day of preparation. Repairing parts that needed it, cleaning others. Doing all the little jobs that need to be done in preparation for a long ocean voyage.

We are still trying to pin down the times for the travel lift is free and available. Business here seems to follow the general theme of relaxed and paced. It takes a little getting used to coming from a place were speed is seen as a boon rather than a bane.

The wind continues to amaze. At home you can see a weather system coming a mile off, and will last for at least a day. Here the wind can go from 5 kts to 25 in the blink of an eye. And die just as fast.

The water is surprisingly full of life. Schools of fish the size of small salmons jump out of the water when ever you row past. Smaller fish about half the size swim around the shallows of the beach.

Although I have only been in Trinidad for 2 full days I have already seen so much, and will probably continue until the day I leave. At least I hope so.

For now good night,
John Foster

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Arrival

I left Victoria at 0620 in the morning. Over 12 hrs later and I landed in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Upon arrival I encountered stiff opposition. Apparently, all though I had all the need documentation and information, I had some how landed illegaly. At first it seemed that they woud promptly put me back on a plain to Canada, but then in a complete 180 degree turn they said that I could stay, and would have to sign on tomorrow (the original understanding). Weird. But all's well that ends.

Today I was given a tour of Chagauramas. The weather is about 30 degrees. Quite a change coming oivut from thinking a high of 12 was a warm for this time of year. The marinas have no docks, instead all boats are attached to permanent mooring bouys, all laid out in perfect rows so that you couldn't tell they weren't docks until you look closely. Its quite beautiful to see all the boats pivote at the same time to a change in the wind.

The weather here is both brief and constant. You have sudden brief rain showers or increase in wind velocity, which lasts no more than 15 minutes, and then its back to the appresive heat.

Our plans are to get the boat pulled in the next couple of days to clean the bottom and put a fresh coat of anti-fouling paint on. Then provisioning and general readying for sea. We are looking to leave in 1-1 1/2 weeks.

Well thats all for now,
John Foster

Monday, March 31, 2008

Somewhere in Trinidad 31 March 2008

In a few hours I will drive to the international airport to meet my nephew John Foster who is flying in from British Columbia. He is joining me on an sea journey northward through the Caribbean chain and then 1,500 miles of open ocean to Canso Strait (separating mainland Nova Scotia from Cape Breton Island) and on to our destination, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island.

The next week will be boat preparations - haul out and anti-fouling, some sail repairs, and a few other odds and ends.

The vessel that will carry us there is called Ara' Deg (meaning 'easy does it' in Welsh) , an Alberg 37, (formerly registered as 'Figment' in the USA), hull no. 111 (which I consider to be a lucky number).

Ara' Deg has proved herself with over 8,000 ocean miles logged by self in the past 21 months. Starting in Maine in June 2006, I sailed her up through eastern Canada across the North Atlantic to Ireland and then back home in Wales where she wintered in Cardiff. I left Burry Port (Wales) on 15 September 2007 stopping in Porto Santo (Madeira), Las Palmas (Gran Caneria), Dakar (Senegal), Banjul (The Gambia), Porta da Praia (Cabo Verde), Charlotteville (Tobego), and Chagauramus, (Trinidad)

The journey back up to PEI will complete the circle of the North Atlantic.

That's the background. I hope that John will take over this blog for the duration of the trip with photos and commentary as we progress towards our goal.

But of course I'll have to interject my side of the story from time to time!

hwyl fawr!

Simon Foster